SCX24 Brass Upgrade: Is It Worth It?
Brass is the most recommended SCX24 upgrade. Here's what it actually does, which pieces matter most, and whether it's worth the money for your rig.
If you’ve spent any time in the SCX24 community, you’ve heard it: “Add brass.” It’s the first suggestion in every forum thread about tipping, the first recommendation under every upgrade video, and usually the first mod that experienced crawlers point beginners toward.
But what does brass actually do? Is it worth the money? And if you’re going to buy it, which pieces matter most?
I went through the same questions when I started. Here’s what I found after running brass on my own rigs and talking to plenty of other crawlers who’ve done the same.
Why Brass?
The answer is weight, and specifically where that weight sits.
RC crawling is a physics problem. Your truck needs to keep its tires in contact with uneven surfaces while maintaining enough stability to not roll over on steep angles. The stock SCX24 is light - really light. That’s fine on flat surfaces, but on rocks, roots, and any kind of off-camber terrain, the truck lifts wheels, tips sideways, and generally struggles to stay planted.
Brass is dense. A single brass knuckle weighs several times more than the plastic piece it replaces. And because the brass parts bolt into the same locations as the stock plastic ones - down low on the axles, near the wheels - that extra weight lands exactly where it helps most. Low and outboard.
The result is a lower center of gravity. The truck resists tipping. The tires stay on the ground longer. Recovery from awkward angles feels less dramatic. It’s not a subtle difference. On technical terrain, the improvement is obvious within the first few minutes of driving.
Which Brass Pieces Matter Most
Not all brass upgrades are created equal. Some make a big difference, some make a modest difference, and a few are more about durability than performance. Here’s the priority order based on actual impact.
Front Steering Knuckles - Start Here
The front steering knuckles are the single highest-impact brass swap. They sit at the front axle, outboard and low, which is the ideal position for lowering CG. The stock plastic knuckles weigh almost nothing. Brass replacements add meaningful weight right where the truck needs it.
If you only buy one brass piece, make it the knuckles.
Differential Covers
Brass diff covers (front and rear) are the second priority. They replace the plastic covers on each axle housing and add weight at the center-low point of each axle. The weight isn’t as far outboard as the knuckles, but it’s still in a great location. Front and rear together make a noticeable improvement to overall stability.
Rear Axle Counterweight or Portal Covers
Depending on the brand, you’ll find brass portal covers or counterweights that mount on the rear axle. These add weight to the back of the truck, which helps with traction on climbs and prevents the rear end from getting light when the front is pointed uphill.
Wheel Hex Hubs
Brass wheel hexes are small but effective. They replace the stock plastic hexes that connect the wheels to the axle shafts. Each one adds a small amount of weight at the outermost point of the axle - as far from center as you can get. The individual weight gain is modest, but four of them together contribute to the overall low-CG effect.
Full Brass Kits
Several manufacturers sell complete kits that include knuckles, diff covers, portal covers, and hexes in one package. Injora and GPM both make well-regarded kits. Buying the kit is usually cheaper than purchasing pieces individually, and you get everything in one go.
If you know you want the full set, a kit is the way to go. If budget is tighter, start with knuckles and add pieces over time.
How Much Does It Cost?
Brass upgrades for the SCX24 are not expensive compared to most RC hobby spending.
- Individual knuckles: $8-15 for a pair
- Diff covers: $8-12 for a pair
- Full kit (knuckles + diff covers + portal covers + hexes): $25-45 depending on brand
Injora tends to be on the more affordable end. GPM and Hot Racing sit slightly higher. The quality differences between brands at this price range are minimal - they’re all machined brass, and they all fit the same mounting points.
For context, the SCX24 itself costs around $130-170 depending on the body style. Spending $30-40 on brass that meaningfully improves the driving experience is one of the better dollar-per-improvement ratios in the hobby.
Is There a Downside?
Honestly, not much of one. But here’s what to be aware of.
Added stress on the drivetrain. More weight means the motor, gears, and servo work slightly harder. On a stock SCX24 this is not a real problem in practice - the drivetrain handles the extra weight fine. But it’s worth knowing that brass is adding load to the system.
Slightly shorter battery life. The motor draws a bit more current pushing a heavier truck. The difference is maybe 5-10 minutes on a charge. If you’re already running a spare battery (and you should - see our first 5 upgrades guide), this is a non-issue.
Diminishing returns. There’s a point where adding more brass stops helping. The first few pieces (knuckles and diff covers) make the biggest difference. After the full kit is installed, adding even more weight via other methods doesn’t improve handling as much and can actually start to hurt performance by overloading the servo and motor. The standard brass kit is the sweet spot.
Brass vs. Other Weight Solutions
You’ll see people suggest other ways to add low weight - wheel weights (like fishing sinkers inside the wheels), chassis-mounted weight plates, or even small weights glued inside the body. These all work to some extent, but brass axle components are better for a few reasons.
First, the weight is structural. It replaces a part that was already there, so there’s no rattling, shifting, or mounting hassle. Second, the weight is in the optimal location by default - you don’t have to figure out placement. Third, brass parts are more durable than the plastic they replace, so you get a minor durability upgrade as a bonus.
Wheel weights are a decent supplement if you want to go further after brass, but they shouldn’t be your first move.
So, Is It Worth It?
Yes. Without hesitation.
Brass is the most cost-effective upgrade you can make to an SCX24. The improvement is immediate, obvious, and doesn’t require any special tools or skills to install. If your truck tips over on terrain that looks like it should be manageable, brass will likely fix it. If your truck already handles okay but you want it to handle better, brass will do that too.
Start with the front steering knuckles. If you like what you feel - and you will - add the diff covers next. Or just grab a full kit and do it all at once. Either way, it’s one of the few upgrades in this hobby where the hype matches the reality.
What to Buy
Here’s the short list:
- Best value full kit: Injora SCX24 Brass Kit - includes knuckles, diff covers, portal covers, and hexes. Usually around $30-35.
- Knuckles only (start here if budget is tight): Injora SCX24 Brass Steering Knuckles - around $8-12.
- Premium option: Hot Racing SCX24 Brass - slightly higher quality machining, slightly higher price. Worth it if you want to buy once.
You’ll need the hex drivers from your tool kit to do the swap. Installation is straightforward - remove the stock plastic piece, bolt on the brass piece in its place. No modifications required.
See also: Your First 5 Crawler Upgrades · Best SCX24 Upgrades Under $50 · SCX24 Platform Guide · Why Your SCX24 Keeps Tipping Over · Recommended Gear
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